The most important thing in this process is that the impedence or resistance of the wire in the loop MUST match the rating on your loop receiver. Most home audio components run at 8 ohms, the one I used has the option to use 8 or 16 ohms. Depending on how long your loop of wire is, and what type of wire you use, one time around the room may not build up enough resistance. Running an amp at a lower impedence than it is rated for will cause it to run too hot and become damaged.
Instead of simply running a single wire around and around the room, you should use at least a 4 conductor(wire) phone cable (Solid conductor is better than stranded in this case). I used Ethernet cable which has 8 conductors in 4 pairs. I had a loop of about 30 feet and I chose to run at 16ohms with my receiver. Using a multi-meter I determined that it would take five loops around the room to reach that value. By laying out both ends of the wire in the same color order, then shifting it one color down, you can create a continuous loop of wire. My cable had 4 pairs, each with one solid color wire, one wire that was white with stripes of that color. I wired my system as shown below.
When wired according ot the diagram, a meter connected to the solid red and striped green wires should show "continuity," meaning that the current is able to flow from the red wire through all the connected wires to the striped green wire. You should get an impedence rating of either 8 or 16 ohms - whatever your reciever says you should use - across those wires as well.
Once you have it wired correctly you should solder the connections and use electrical tape to prevent the connections from contacting each other.
Note that I used the remaining brown wires as a strain relief. I tied them together at a shorter length than the rest of the wires. This way if the cable ends get pulled on, it would not put a strain on the soldered connections.